Templating Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Pencil<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Ruler<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Eraser<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Template material<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Cutting Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Gingher-serrated scissors<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Box cutter<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 3\/16 inch hole punch<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Razor blade<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
General Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Skiving knife<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Edge beveled<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- V-groover<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Silicon glue spreader<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Rotary hole puncher<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Scratch awl<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Fie Bing’s Leathercraft Cement<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Weighted Maul\/mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Stitching Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Stitch marker<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Stitch groover<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Harness needles<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Wood edge dye dauber<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Thread<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Diamond awed chisels<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Edge Finishing Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Soft cloth<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 600 grit sandpaper<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Cocobolo edge burnisher\/canvas cloth<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 220 grit sandpaper<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 50\/50 paraffin and beeswax mixture<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Rivet and Snap Setting Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Rivet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Lignite 24 snaps<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Hand press<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Saddle skirting<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
![\"Axe](\"https:\/\/lonelyaxe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/1-12-jpg.webp\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nAxe with a leather sheath<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nMaking the Template<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
First, place the axe 1\/4 an inch away from the folder\u2019s centerfold. Doing this allows the leather to compress and bend for stitching. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Also, it enables you to get the blade to the sheath, leaving the leather unsliced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Trace a line starting from the blade\u2019s tip and trace a line down the curved edge of the blade. Stop the line at the end of the other tip after that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Measure \u00bd inch away from the drawn line close to the sword. For every inch or two, make guide marks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Continue marking after every 1\/2 inch to the top of the blade. Draw a semi-circle using a 3\/16-inch hole punch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The sheath should cover the blade by close to 4 inches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
From here, draw the sheath\u2019s top edge connecting with the lower end in a perfect curve.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, fold the folder and cut out the outer line sheath shape. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Take the cut shape folded in half, and trace it to the other side of the manilla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting the Leather<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
You need about 2 square feet of quality leather for all pieces. Cut a perfectly straight edge into the leather and push the leather lightly into a handy measuring tool for excellent results. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Lay down your template on the leather, then trace it with a pencil. When working on thicker leather, rough cut out the whole area where the tracing is. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting thick leather is an uphill task; mostly, you must use a large blade, which could be uncomfortable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
To counter this, we suggest you first wet the leather to make fibers easily cut through. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a damp sponge to wet your leather. Afterward, use a sharp pair of Gingher-serrated blade scissors to cut through the thick leather easily.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Person](\"https:\/\/lonelyaxe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/2-13-jpg.webp\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPerson cutting leather<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nCutting the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Cut your strap extra long, and snip it to size when fitting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For standard axes, your rough cut should be close to 21 inches. Get a long enough leather section to cut the strap, then lay down your steel ruler.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
With the help of an Olfa<\/a> rolling razor, carefully cut a long straight line close to the edge of the leather to minimize wastage. <\/p>\n\n\n\nWe suggest you use a generic strap cutter to make the strap uniformly parallel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Leather](\"https:\/\/lonelyaxe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/3-12-jpg.webp\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLeather strap.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nClean the Edges<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
220-grit sandpaper<\/a> is your best shot if you need perfectly smooth edges. Having completed all the steps, a more uniform surface creates a perfect shine.<\/p>\n\n\n\nUse Stitch Groover to Make the Grooves<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
A stitch groover creates a cavity in the leather and doesn\u2019t cut the leather. Adjust the edge guide close to twice the stitch grove\u2019s distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Stitch](\"https:\/\/lonelyaxe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/4-12-jpg.webp\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nStitch groover with a wooden handle.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nPrepping the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For a better style, use a belt end cutter and a weighted maul with a rubber board beneath. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you have a plastic cutting board, use it since the end of the blade can penetrate rubber easily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For the strap edges, lightly wet them like before on the grain side. Adjust the guide to 3\/16 inches, then make a line on both sides of the strap. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, bevel edges on both sides. A Japanese skiving blade<\/a> bevels better. Use it at an angle and keep the beveled side down. <\/p>\n\n\n\nGluing the Welt<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you want glue to grip your leather firmer, use 60-grit sandpaper to disfigure the leather. For the glue type, we suggest using those with minimal VOCs.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nFrom experience, we realized a Fiebings glue perfectly befits this action. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Furthermore, sewing needles go through this glue quite quickly. Place a small line down the center of the sheath\u2019s glue area.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a silicone glue spreader to spread the glue on the sheath.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Punching the Stitch Holes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
To create perfect stitch holes, use a diamond chisel set. With this in mind, you must use the perfectly placed stitches to your advantage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Man](\"https:\/\/lonelyaxe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/5-10-jpg.webp\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nMan making stitch holes on leather.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nTrimming The Front Edge<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Once done with the iron chisel, use a box cutter to trim the edge of the welt closer to the body. Keep your tool perpendicular to the leather to avoid undercutting the leather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sand down the welt to align with the leather\u2019s top layer. However, if you over-sand the welt, your stitch line might be too close to the edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Edge Dyeing and Finishing Stage<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For the best results, we suggest using Fiebling\u2019s Pro Dye. Burn the dauber down to a splendid crisp ball using a lighter. Finalize by dampening the edge with a damp cloth.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Rub vigorously and apply pressure on the edge using a canvas piece. With a burnisher, apply some pressure, feeding the edge through one slot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Click the sheath to obtain a nice shiny, and smooth edge. Oil wax the sheath and polish the shine back to the edge afterward.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Stitching the Axe Sheath<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Cutting Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Gingher-serrated scissors<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Box cutter<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 3\/16 inch hole punch<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Razor blade<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
General Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Skiving knife<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Edge beveled<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- V-groover<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Silicon glue spreader<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Rotary hole puncher<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Scratch awl<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Fie Bing’s Leathercraft Cement<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Weighted Maul\/mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Stitching Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Stitch marker<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Stitch groover<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Harness needles<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Wood edge dye dauber<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Thread<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Diamond awed chisels<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Edge Finishing Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Soft cloth<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 600 grit sandpaper<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Cocobolo edge burnisher\/canvas cloth<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 220 grit sandpaper<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 50\/50 paraffin and beeswax mixture<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Rivet and Snap Setting Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Rivet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Lignite 24 snaps<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Hand press<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Saddle skirting<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nAxe with a leather sheath<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nMaking the Template<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
First, place the axe 1\/4 an inch away from the folder\u2019s centerfold. Doing this allows the leather to compress and bend for stitching. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Also, it enables you to get the blade to the sheath, leaving the leather unsliced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Trace a line starting from the blade\u2019s tip and trace a line down the curved edge of the blade. Stop the line at the end of the other tip after that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Measure \u00bd inch away from the drawn line close to the sword. For every inch or two, make guide marks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Continue marking after every 1\/2 inch to the top of the blade. Draw a semi-circle using a 3\/16-inch hole punch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The sheath should cover the blade by close to 4 inches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
From here, draw the sheath\u2019s top edge connecting with the lower end in a perfect curve.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, fold the folder and cut out the outer line sheath shape. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Take the cut shape folded in half, and trace it to the other side of the manilla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting the Leather<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
You need about 2 square feet of quality leather for all pieces. Cut a perfectly straight edge into the leather and push the leather lightly into a handy measuring tool for excellent results. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Lay down your template on the leather, then trace it with a pencil. When working on thicker leather, rough cut out the whole area where the tracing is. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting thick leather is an uphill task; mostly, you must use a large blade, which could be uncomfortable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
To counter this, we suggest you first wet the leather to make fibers easily cut through. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a damp sponge to wet your leather. Afterward, use a sharp pair of Gingher-serrated blade scissors to cut through the thick leather easily.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPerson cutting leather<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nCutting the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Cut your strap extra long, and snip it to size when fitting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For standard axes, your rough cut should be close to 21 inches. Get a long enough leather section to cut the strap, then lay down your steel ruler.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
With the help of an Olfa<\/a> rolling razor, carefully cut a long straight line close to the edge of the leather to minimize wastage. <\/p>\n\n\n\nWe suggest you use a generic strap cutter to make the strap uniformly parallel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLeather strap.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nClean the Edges<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
220-grit sandpaper<\/a> is your best shot if you need perfectly smooth edges. Having completed all the steps, a more uniform surface creates a perfect shine.<\/p>\n\n\n\nUse Stitch Groover to Make the Grooves<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
A stitch groover creates a cavity in the leather and doesn\u2019t cut the leather. Adjust the edge guide close to twice the stitch grove\u2019s distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nStitch groover with a wooden handle.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nPrepping the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For a better style, use a belt end cutter and a weighted maul with a rubber board beneath. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you have a plastic cutting board, use it since the end of the blade can penetrate rubber easily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For the strap edges, lightly wet them like before on the grain side. Adjust the guide to 3\/16 inches, then make a line on both sides of the strap. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, bevel edges on both sides. A Japanese skiving blade<\/a> bevels better. Use it at an angle and keep the beveled side down. <\/p>\n\n\n\nGluing the Welt<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you want glue to grip your leather firmer, use 60-grit sandpaper to disfigure the leather. For the glue type, we suggest using those with minimal VOCs.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nFrom experience, we realized a Fiebings glue perfectly befits this action. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Furthermore, sewing needles go through this glue quite quickly. Place a small line down the center of the sheath\u2019s glue area.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a silicone glue spreader to spread the glue on the sheath.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Punching the Stitch Holes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
To create perfect stitch holes, use a diamond chisel set. With this in mind, you must use the perfectly placed stitches to your advantage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nMan making stitch holes on leather.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nTrimming The Front Edge<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Once done with the iron chisel, use a box cutter to trim the edge of the welt closer to the body. Keep your tool perpendicular to the leather to avoid undercutting the leather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sand down the welt to align with the leather\u2019s top layer. However, if you over-sand the welt, your stitch line might be too close to the edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Edge Dyeing and Finishing Stage<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For the best results, we suggest using Fiebling\u2019s Pro Dye. Burn the dauber down to a splendid crisp ball using a lighter. Finalize by dampening the edge with a damp cloth.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Rub vigorously and apply pressure on the edge using a canvas piece. With a burnisher, apply some pressure, feeding the edge through one slot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Click the sheath to obtain a nice shiny, and smooth edge. Oil wax the sheath and polish the shine back to the edge afterward.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Stitching the Axe Sheath<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
General Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Skiving knife<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Edge beveled<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- V-groover<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Silicon glue spreader<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Rotary hole puncher<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Scratch awl<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Fie Bing’s Leathercraft Cement<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Weighted Maul\/mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Stitching Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Stitch marker<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Stitch groover<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Harness needles<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Wood edge dye dauber<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Thread<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Diamond awed chisels<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Edge Finishing Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Soft cloth<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 600 grit sandpaper<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Cocobolo edge burnisher\/canvas cloth<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 220 grit sandpaper<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 50\/50 paraffin and beeswax mixture<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Rivet and Snap Setting Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Rivet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Lignite 24 snaps<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Hand press<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Saddle skirting<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nAxe with a leather sheath<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nMaking the Template<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
First, place the axe 1\/4 an inch away from the folder\u2019s centerfold. Doing this allows the leather to compress and bend for stitching. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Also, it enables you to get the blade to the sheath, leaving the leather unsliced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Trace a line starting from the blade\u2019s tip and trace a line down the curved edge of the blade. Stop the line at the end of the other tip after that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Measure \u00bd inch away from the drawn line close to the sword. For every inch or two, make guide marks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Continue marking after every 1\/2 inch to the top of the blade. Draw a semi-circle using a 3\/16-inch hole punch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The sheath should cover the blade by close to 4 inches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
From here, draw the sheath\u2019s top edge connecting with the lower end in a perfect curve.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, fold the folder and cut out the outer line sheath shape. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Take the cut shape folded in half, and trace it to the other side of the manilla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting the Leather<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
You need about 2 square feet of quality leather for all pieces. Cut a perfectly straight edge into the leather and push the leather lightly into a handy measuring tool for excellent results. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Lay down your template on the leather, then trace it with a pencil. When working on thicker leather, rough cut out the whole area where the tracing is. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting thick leather is an uphill task; mostly, you must use a large blade, which could be uncomfortable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
To counter this, we suggest you first wet the leather to make fibers easily cut through. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a damp sponge to wet your leather. Afterward, use a sharp pair of Gingher-serrated blade scissors to cut through the thick leather easily.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPerson cutting leather<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nCutting the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Cut your strap extra long, and snip it to size when fitting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For standard axes, your rough cut should be close to 21 inches. Get a long enough leather section to cut the strap, then lay down your steel ruler.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
With the help of an Olfa<\/a> rolling razor, carefully cut a long straight line close to the edge of the leather to minimize wastage. <\/p>\n\n\n\nWe suggest you use a generic strap cutter to make the strap uniformly parallel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLeather strap.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nClean the Edges<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
220-grit sandpaper<\/a> is your best shot if you need perfectly smooth edges. Having completed all the steps, a more uniform surface creates a perfect shine.<\/p>\n\n\n\nUse Stitch Groover to Make the Grooves<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
A stitch groover creates a cavity in the leather and doesn\u2019t cut the leather. Adjust the edge guide close to twice the stitch grove\u2019s distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nStitch groover with a wooden handle.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nPrepping the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For a better style, use a belt end cutter and a weighted maul with a rubber board beneath. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you have a plastic cutting board, use it since the end of the blade can penetrate rubber easily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For the strap edges, lightly wet them like before on the grain side. Adjust the guide to 3\/16 inches, then make a line on both sides of the strap. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, bevel edges on both sides. A Japanese skiving blade<\/a> bevels better. Use it at an angle and keep the beveled side down. <\/p>\n\n\n\nGluing the Welt<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you want glue to grip your leather firmer, use 60-grit sandpaper to disfigure the leather. For the glue type, we suggest using those with minimal VOCs.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nFrom experience, we realized a Fiebings glue perfectly befits this action. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Furthermore, sewing needles go through this glue quite quickly. Place a small line down the center of the sheath\u2019s glue area.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a silicone glue spreader to spread the glue on the sheath.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Punching the Stitch Holes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
To create perfect stitch holes, use a diamond chisel set. With this in mind, you must use the perfectly placed stitches to your advantage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nMan making stitch holes on leather.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nTrimming The Front Edge<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Once done with the iron chisel, use a box cutter to trim the edge of the welt closer to the body. Keep your tool perpendicular to the leather to avoid undercutting the leather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sand down the welt to align with the leather\u2019s top layer. However, if you over-sand the welt, your stitch line might be too close to the edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Edge Dyeing and Finishing Stage<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For the best results, we suggest using Fiebling\u2019s Pro Dye. Burn the dauber down to a splendid crisp ball using a lighter. Finalize by dampening the edge with a damp cloth.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Rub vigorously and apply pressure on the edge using a canvas piece. With a burnisher, apply some pressure, feeding the edge through one slot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Click the sheath to obtain a nice shiny, and smooth edge. Oil wax the sheath and polish the shine back to the edge afterward.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Stitching the Axe Sheath<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Stitching Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Stitch marker<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Stitch groover<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Harness needles<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Wood edge dye dauber<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Thread<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Diamond awed chisels<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Edge Finishing Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Soft cloth<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 600 grit sandpaper<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Cocobolo edge burnisher\/canvas cloth<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 220 grit sandpaper<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 50\/50 paraffin and beeswax mixture<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Rivet and Snap Setting Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Rivet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Lignite 24 snaps<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Hand press<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Saddle skirting<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nAxe with a leather sheath<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nMaking the Template<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
First, place the axe 1\/4 an inch away from the folder\u2019s centerfold. Doing this allows the leather to compress and bend for stitching. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Also, it enables you to get the blade to the sheath, leaving the leather unsliced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Trace a line starting from the blade\u2019s tip and trace a line down the curved edge of the blade. Stop the line at the end of the other tip after that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Measure \u00bd inch away from the drawn line close to the sword. For every inch or two, make guide marks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Continue marking after every 1\/2 inch to the top of the blade. Draw a semi-circle using a 3\/16-inch hole punch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The sheath should cover the blade by close to 4 inches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
From here, draw the sheath\u2019s top edge connecting with the lower end in a perfect curve.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, fold the folder and cut out the outer line sheath shape. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Take the cut shape folded in half, and trace it to the other side of the manilla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting the Leather<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
You need about 2 square feet of quality leather for all pieces. Cut a perfectly straight edge into the leather and push the leather lightly into a handy measuring tool for excellent results. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Lay down your template on the leather, then trace it with a pencil. When working on thicker leather, rough cut out the whole area where the tracing is. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting thick leather is an uphill task; mostly, you must use a large blade, which could be uncomfortable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
To counter this, we suggest you first wet the leather to make fibers easily cut through. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a damp sponge to wet your leather. Afterward, use a sharp pair of Gingher-serrated blade scissors to cut through the thick leather easily.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPerson cutting leather<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nCutting the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Cut your strap extra long, and snip it to size when fitting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For standard axes, your rough cut should be close to 21 inches. Get a long enough leather section to cut the strap, then lay down your steel ruler.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
With the help of an Olfa<\/a> rolling razor, carefully cut a long straight line close to the edge of the leather to minimize wastage. <\/p>\n\n\n\nWe suggest you use a generic strap cutter to make the strap uniformly parallel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLeather strap.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nClean the Edges<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
220-grit sandpaper<\/a> is your best shot if you need perfectly smooth edges. Having completed all the steps, a more uniform surface creates a perfect shine.<\/p>\n\n\n\nUse Stitch Groover to Make the Grooves<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
A stitch groover creates a cavity in the leather and doesn\u2019t cut the leather. Adjust the edge guide close to twice the stitch grove\u2019s distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nStitch groover with a wooden handle.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nPrepping the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For a better style, use a belt end cutter and a weighted maul with a rubber board beneath. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you have a plastic cutting board, use it since the end of the blade can penetrate rubber easily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For the strap edges, lightly wet them like before on the grain side. Adjust the guide to 3\/16 inches, then make a line on both sides of the strap. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, bevel edges on both sides. A Japanese skiving blade<\/a> bevels better. Use it at an angle and keep the beveled side down. <\/p>\n\n\n\nGluing the Welt<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you want glue to grip your leather firmer, use 60-grit sandpaper to disfigure the leather. For the glue type, we suggest using those with minimal VOCs.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nFrom experience, we realized a Fiebings glue perfectly befits this action. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Furthermore, sewing needles go through this glue quite quickly. Place a small line down the center of the sheath\u2019s glue area.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a silicone glue spreader to spread the glue on the sheath.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Punching the Stitch Holes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
To create perfect stitch holes, use a diamond chisel set. With this in mind, you must use the perfectly placed stitches to your advantage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nMan making stitch holes on leather.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nTrimming The Front Edge<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Once done with the iron chisel, use a box cutter to trim the edge of the welt closer to the body. Keep your tool perpendicular to the leather to avoid undercutting the leather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sand down the welt to align with the leather\u2019s top layer. However, if you over-sand the welt, your stitch line might be too close to the edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Edge Dyeing and Finishing Stage<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For the best results, we suggest using Fiebling\u2019s Pro Dye. Burn the dauber down to a splendid crisp ball using a lighter. Finalize by dampening the edge with a damp cloth.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Rub vigorously and apply pressure on the edge using a canvas piece. With a burnisher, apply some pressure, feeding the edge through one slot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Click the sheath to obtain a nice shiny, and smooth edge. Oil wax the sheath and polish the shine back to the edge afterward.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Stitching the Axe Sheath<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Edge Finishing Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Soft cloth<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 600 grit sandpaper<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Cocobolo edge burnisher\/canvas cloth<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 220 grit sandpaper<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 50\/50 paraffin and beeswax mixture<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Rivet and Snap Setting Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Rivet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Lignite 24 snaps<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Hand press<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Saddle skirting<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nAxe with a leather sheath<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nMaking the Template<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
First, place the axe 1\/4 an inch away from the folder\u2019s centerfold. Doing this allows the leather to compress and bend for stitching. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Also, it enables you to get the blade to the sheath, leaving the leather unsliced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Trace a line starting from the blade\u2019s tip and trace a line down the curved edge of the blade. Stop the line at the end of the other tip after that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Measure \u00bd inch away from the drawn line close to the sword. For every inch or two, make guide marks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Continue marking after every 1\/2 inch to the top of the blade. Draw a semi-circle using a 3\/16-inch hole punch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The sheath should cover the blade by close to 4 inches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
From here, draw the sheath\u2019s top edge connecting with the lower end in a perfect curve.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, fold the folder and cut out the outer line sheath shape. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Take the cut shape folded in half, and trace it to the other side of the manilla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting the Leather<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
You need about 2 square feet of quality leather for all pieces. Cut a perfectly straight edge into the leather and push the leather lightly into a handy measuring tool for excellent results. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Lay down your template on the leather, then trace it with a pencil. When working on thicker leather, rough cut out the whole area where the tracing is. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting thick leather is an uphill task; mostly, you must use a large blade, which could be uncomfortable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
To counter this, we suggest you first wet the leather to make fibers easily cut through. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a damp sponge to wet your leather. Afterward, use a sharp pair of Gingher-serrated blade scissors to cut through the thick leather easily.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPerson cutting leather<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nCutting the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Cut your strap extra long, and snip it to size when fitting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For standard axes, your rough cut should be close to 21 inches. Get a long enough leather section to cut the strap, then lay down your steel ruler.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
With the help of an Olfa<\/a> rolling razor, carefully cut a long straight line close to the edge of the leather to minimize wastage. <\/p>\n\n\n\nWe suggest you use a generic strap cutter to make the strap uniformly parallel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLeather strap.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nClean the Edges<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
220-grit sandpaper<\/a> is your best shot if you need perfectly smooth edges. Having completed all the steps, a more uniform surface creates a perfect shine.<\/p>\n\n\n\nUse Stitch Groover to Make the Grooves<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
A stitch groover creates a cavity in the leather and doesn\u2019t cut the leather. Adjust the edge guide close to twice the stitch grove\u2019s distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nStitch groover with a wooden handle.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nPrepping the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For a better style, use a belt end cutter and a weighted maul with a rubber board beneath. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you have a plastic cutting board, use it since the end of the blade can penetrate rubber easily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For the strap edges, lightly wet them like before on the grain side. Adjust the guide to 3\/16 inches, then make a line on both sides of the strap. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, bevel edges on both sides. A Japanese skiving blade<\/a> bevels better. Use it at an angle and keep the beveled side down. <\/p>\n\n\n\nGluing the Welt<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you want glue to grip your leather firmer, use 60-grit sandpaper to disfigure the leather. For the glue type, we suggest using those with minimal VOCs.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nFrom experience, we realized a Fiebings glue perfectly befits this action. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Furthermore, sewing needles go through this glue quite quickly. Place a small line down the center of the sheath\u2019s glue area.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a silicone glue spreader to spread the glue on the sheath.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Punching the Stitch Holes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
To create perfect stitch holes, use a diamond chisel set. With this in mind, you must use the perfectly placed stitches to your advantage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nMan making stitch holes on leather.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nTrimming The Front Edge<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Once done with the iron chisel, use a box cutter to trim the edge of the welt closer to the body. Keep your tool perpendicular to the leather to avoid undercutting the leather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sand down the welt to align with the leather\u2019s top layer. However, if you over-sand the welt, your stitch line might be too close to the edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Edge Dyeing and Finishing Stage<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For the best results, we suggest using Fiebling\u2019s Pro Dye. Burn the dauber down to a splendid crisp ball using a lighter. Finalize by dampening the edge with a damp cloth.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Rub vigorously and apply pressure on the edge using a canvas piece. With a burnisher, apply some pressure, feeding the edge through one slot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Click the sheath to obtain a nice shiny, and smooth edge. Oil wax the sheath and polish the shine back to the edge afterward.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Stitching the Axe Sheath<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Rivet and Snap Setting Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Rivet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Lignite 24 snaps<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Hand press<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Saddle skirting<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nAxe with a leather sheath<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nMaking the Template<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
First, place the axe 1\/4 an inch away from the folder\u2019s centerfold. Doing this allows the leather to compress and bend for stitching. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Also, it enables you to get the blade to the sheath, leaving the leather unsliced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Trace a line starting from the blade\u2019s tip and trace a line down the curved edge of the blade. Stop the line at the end of the other tip after that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Measure \u00bd inch away from the drawn line close to the sword. For every inch or two, make guide marks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Continue marking after every 1\/2 inch to the top of the blade. Draw a semi-circle using a 3\/16-inch hole punch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The sheath should cover the blade by close to 4 inches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
From here, draw the sheath\u2019s top edge connecting with the lower end in a perfect curve.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, fold the folder and cut out the outer line sheath shape. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Take the cut shape folded in half, and trace it to the other side of the manilla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting the Leather<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
You need about 2 square feet of quality leather for all pieces. Cut a perfectly straight edge into the leather and push the leather lightly into a handy measuring tool for excellent results. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Lay down your template on the leather, then trace it with a pencil. When working on thicker leather, rough cut out the whole area where the tracing is. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cutting thick leather is an uphill task; mostly, you must use a large blade, which could be uncomfortable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
To counter this, we suggest you first wet the leather to make fibers easily cut through. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a damp sponge to wet your leather. Afterward, use a sharp pair of Gingher-serrated blade scissors to cut through the thick leather easily.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPerson cutting leather<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nCutting the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Cut your strap extra long, and snip it to size when fitting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For standard axes, your rough cut should be close to 21 inches. Get a long enough leather section to cut the strap, then lay down your steel ruler.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
With the help of an Olfa<\/a> rolling razor, carefully cut a long straight line close to the edge of the leather to minimize wastage. <\/p>\n\n\n\nWe suggest you use a generic strap cutter to make the strap uniformly parallel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLeather strap.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nClean the Edges<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
220-grit sandpaper<\/a> is your best shot if you need perfectly smooth edges. Having completed all the steps, a more uniform surface creates a perfect shine.<\/p>\n\n\n\nUse Stitch Groover to Make the Grooves<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
A stitch groover creates a cavity in the leather and doesn\u2019t cut the leather. Adjust the edge guide close to twice the stitch grove\u2019s distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nStitch groover with a wooden handle.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nPrepping the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For a better style, use a belt end cutter and a weighted maul with a rubber board beneath. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you have a plastic cutting board, use it since the end of the blade can penetrate rubber easily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For the strap edges, lightly wet them like before on the grain side. Adjust the guide to 3\/16 inches, then make a line on both sides of the strap. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Afterward, bevel edges on both sides. A Japanese skiving blade<\/a> bevels better. Use it at an angle and keep the beveled side down. <\/p>\n\n\n\nGluing the Welt<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you want glue to grip your leather firmer, use 60-grit sandpaper to disfigure the leather. For the glue type, we suggest using those with minimal VOCs.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nFrom experience, we realized a Fiebings glue perfectly befits this action. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Furthermore, sewing needles go through this glue quite quickly. Place a small line down the center of the sheath\u2019s glue area.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Use a silicone glue spreader to spread the glue on the sheath.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Punching the Stitch Holes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
To create perfect stitch holes, use a diamond chisel set. With this in mind, you must use the perfectly placed stitches to your advantage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nMan making stitch holes on leather.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\nTrimming The Front Edge<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Once done with the iron chisel, use a box cutter to trim the edge of the welt closer to the body. Keep your tool perpendicular to the leather to avoid undercutting the leather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sand down the welt to align with the leather\u2019s top layer. However, if you over-sand the welt, your stitch line might be too close to the edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Edge Dyeing and Finishing Stage<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
For the best results, we suggest using Fiebling\u2019s Pro Dye. Burn the dauber down to a splendid crisp ball using a lighter. Finalize by dampening the edge with a damp cloth.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Rub vigorously and apply pressure on the edge using a canvas piece. With a burnisher, apply some pressure, feeding the edge through one slot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Click the sheath to obtain a nice shiny, and smooth edge. Oil wax the sheath and polish the shine back to the edge afterward.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Stitching the Axe Sheath<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nAxe with a leather sheath<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n First, place the axe 1\/4 an inch away from the folder\u2019s centerfold. Doing this allows the leather to compress and bend for stitching. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Also, it enables you to get the blade to the sheath, leaving the leather unsliced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Trace a line starting from the blade\u2019s tip and trace a line down the curved edge of the blade. Stop the line at the end of the other tip after that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Measure \u00bd inch away from the drawn line close to the sword. For every inch or two, make guide marks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Continue marking after every 1\/2 inch to the top of the blade. Draw a semi-circle using a 3\/16-inch hole punch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The sheath should cover the blade by close to 4 inches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n From here, draw the sheath\u2019s top edge connecting with the lower end in a perfect curve.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n Afterward, fold the folder and cut out the outer line sheath shape. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Take the cut shape folded in half, and trace it to the other side of the manilla.<\/p>\n\n\n\n You need about 2 square feet of quality leather for all pieces. Cut a perfectly straight edge into the leather and push the leather lightly into a handy measuring tool for excellent results. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Lay down your template on the leather, then trace it with a pencil. When working on thicker leather, rough cut out the whole area where the tracing is. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Cutting thick leather is an uphill task; mostly, you must use a large blade, which could be uncomfortable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n To counter this, we suggest you first wet the leather to make fibers easily cut through. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Use a damp sponge to wet your leather. Afterward, use a sharp pair of Gingher-serrated blade scissors to cut through the thick leather easily.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n Person cutting leather<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Cut your strap extra long, and snip it to size when fitting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n For standard axes, your rough cut should be close to 21 inches. Get a long enough leather section to cut the strap, then lay down your steel ruler.<\/p>\n\n\n\n With the help of an Olfa<\/a> rolling razor, carefully cut a long straight line close to the edge of the leather to minimize wastage. <\/p>\n\n\n\n We suggest you use a generic strap cutter to make the strap uniformly parallel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Leather strap.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n 220-grit sandpaper<\/a> is your best shot if you need perfectly smooth edges. Having completed all the steps, a more uniform surface creates a perfect shine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A stitch groover creates a cavity in the leather and doesn\u2019t cut the leather. Adjust the edge guide close to twice the stitch grove\u2019s distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Stitch groover with a wooden handle.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n For a better style, use a belt end cutter and a weighted maul with a rubber board beneath. <\/p>\n\n\n\n If you have a plastic cutting board, use it since the end of the blade can penetrate rubber easily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For the strap edges, lightly wet them like before on the grain side. Adjust the guide to 3\/16 inches, then make a line on both sides of the strap. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Afterward, bevel edges on both sides. A Japanese skiving blade<\/a> bevels better. Use it at an angle and keep the beveled side down. <\/p>\n\n\n\n If you want glue to grip your leather firmer, use 60-grit sandpaper to disfigure the leather. For the glue type, we suggest using those with minimal VOCs.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n From experience, we realized a Fiebings glue perfectly befits this action. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Furthermore, sewing needles go through this glue quite quickly. Place a small line down the center of the sheath\u2019s glue area.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n Use a silicone glue spreader to spread the glue on the sheath.<\/p>\n\n\n\n To create perfect stitch holes, use a diamond chisel set. With this in mind, you must use the perfectly placed stitches to your advantage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Man making stitch holes on leather.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Once done with the iron chisel, use a box cutter to trim the edge of the welt closer to the body. Keep your tool perpendicular to the leather to avoid undercutting the leather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Sand down the welt to align with the leather\u2019s top layer. However, if you over-sand the welt, your stitch line might be too close to the edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n For the best results, we suggest using Fiebling\u2019s Pro Dye. Burn the dauber down to a splendid crisp ball using a lighter. Finalize by dampening the edge with a damp cloth.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n Rub vigorously and apply pressure on the edge using a canvas piece. With a burnisher, apply some pressure, feeding the edge through one slot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Click the sheath to obtain a nice shiny, and smooth edge. Oil wax the sheath and polish the shine back to the edge afterward.<\/p>\n\n\n\nMaking the Template<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Cutting the Leather<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nCutting the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nClean the Edges<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Use Stitch Groover to Make the Grooves<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPrepping the Strap<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Gluing the Welt<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Punching the Stitch Holes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nTrimming The Front Edge<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Edge Dyeing and Finishing Stage<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Stitching the Axe Sheath<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
![\"Stitching](\"https:\/\/lonelyaxe.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/6-10-jpg.webp\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n